July 20th, 2009 Posted in Uncategorized | No Comments »
After traveling for the better part of 4 days, I have finally reached my destination of Lubango Africa! The trip from Canada to Angola was a long one to be sure and I was utterly exhausted to say the least, but other than losing my passport, my boarding pass and $200 US dollars in the Vancouver International Airport, only to have it turned in to my departure gate by some very kind person, my trip so far has been quite uneventful. The flight from Vancouver to Frankfurt was brutally long and I was almost certain I would have bilateral leg clots by the end of it.
After another very long flight from Germany lasting in excess of 10 hours (I am pretty sure I had clots after this one) I arrived in the infamous Jo-berg…the huge and sprawling South African city toted to be among the top-5 most dangerous places in the world. Needless to say, I was not too keen on leaving the airport so I did not really see much else in the 4 short hours before departing to Windhoek, Namibia. Most of you have probably never heard of Namibia let alone Windhoek, but it was quite a neat little place hidden away from the hustle and bustle of South Africa and seemingly insulated from the violence that has plagued its neighbors to the north and west. And the fact that “Branjolina’s” son was born there makes it even more bizarre than it already is. Basically a Dutch city in the middle of an African desert, it’s claim to fame is not windmills, cheese nor dykes but rather Jagermeister liqueur which flows like water ….literally…its on tap! Unfortunately my stay there was quite short and I was really so utterly exhausted that I basically slept until I had to leave again early the next morning. Nonetheless, I was very excited to be finally heading to Angola so there was no looking back. “Nowv you vill tsee dee real Africa” they said in Windhoek…they were not kidding.
The flight from Namibia to Angola was a short one but I found myself feeling a little worried given the parting words of my Namibian inn-keeper. “Just veemember….if you get into trouble, just stay the nice and veelax ok?” As it turns out, there was not much trouble at the small table they called Customs in Lubango when I arrived. I was met by two Angolan employees from the CEML (the hospital where Dr. Stephen Foster is Director and where I was to work) and after a short conversation in Portuguese describing my purpose in the country and my association with Dr. Foster, I was escorted through the line of people and out the front door with little or no hassle! The whole experience was a bit bizarre and left me in awe of the apparent influence Dr. Foster held, but I was glad to be free at last.
My initial feeling was a bit surreal. The city of Lubango looks like what I would imagine Beirut to look like…..narrow dusty streets lined with ramshackle homes, burning garbage everywhere and more stray dogs than even Guatemala! I had only been here for less than 48 hours and already I had seen more poverty than can be realistically be imagined. I mean, I must have seen hundreds of pictures of these types of places over the years but it is just so real that it is truly overwhelming. So many people and so much poverty. Where to even start would be a monumental question…
Fortunately for me, “where to start ? ” is not a question I had to answer. Within minutes of my arrival at the Centro Evangelico Medicina do Lubango (CEML) I was asked by a young Brazilian doctor not much older than myself, to see a young woman who had been sick for almost one month and was getting worse by the day… and so it began…and like the blind leading the deaf we stumbled through the young woman’s story in order to come up with a treatment plan… at least for the night. My initial impressions were clouded by my inexperience but I am quite certain at this point that she had malaria of the brain….In the end, despite our best efforts and advice, her family took her home to die. It was difficult to see this happen, but death is an everyday occurrence here. It is difficult to separate life from death when it is such a frequent thing. Even the death of young patients seems to be somehow not unexpected. In the first two days of my time here, we have lost 4 patients. Among them one baby with pneumonia, one young man with severe malaria falciparum infection, one young man with Cerebral Palsy and HIV (one wonders how he got this) and one elderly lady who passed in the night from unknown causes. The self preserving part of me is thankful that none of these patients were under my care, but the realistic side of me knows that I will soon face this reality. When it does come I just hope that I will have what it takes to know that I did my best with what limited supplies we have and to move forward… I have spent my first two nights here reading by candle light in my small room, with the constant fear that I will not know what to do when the time comes… this fear eats at me but at same time drives me….hopefully not insane. Tomorrow is the start of the new week and I am looking forward to meeting it head on.